Day 15 Flinders Ranges to Farina Campgrounds

We got up early this morning to get some pictures of sunrise over the Flinders Ranges. Note, sunrise is around 7.30 am out here.

After breakfast we left the Ranges via the Brachina Gorge which was a spectacular drive right through the gorge, amazing!

Once back at the highway we headed to Leigh Creek. First we passed through Parachilna which wasn’t more than 4 buildings. Out here you are really in the middle of nowhere. There aren’t many people who live here and it all feels very, very remote.

Up next we took the detour via Beltana. First we past an old Afghan well. In the early days there was a thriving community of Afghan (actually many were Indian) camel breeders out here. The well was very much intact and still had heaps of water in it.

Just a bit further was the Beltana Homestead; a working cattle farm that also functions as a campsite, a museum and a restaurant. It was a great experience to stop here. First we had a look at the museum, and then we watched the alpaca’s being fed.  Afterwards we had coffee with scones. It was very tempting to stay here for the night (they even had a little swimming pool!) but it was still that early in the day that we decided to move on.

The historic town of Beltana was just down the road and we had a look at the old buildings and relics from the past.

Via a dirt road we eventually made it back to the highway and 15 minutes later we were in Leigh Creek. We didn’t have many expectations but we were so relieved to find an actual supermarket in this tiny coal mine town!!! As we were about to start the Oodnadatta track (one of Australia’s greatest outback tracks) it was a welcome stop to stock up on food and drinks!

As this was the last place where we would have internet access for the coming days, we decided to update our travel blog and get in touch with our family before continuing our trip.

When we drove out of Leigh Creek we saw a glimpse of the enormous coal mine in the distance. You cannot believe how big this open cut mine is! Unfortunately we weren't allowed to see it up close.

In the little town of Lyndhurst we drove to ‘Talc Alf's Art Gallery' to have a look at the talc statues of this famous outback artist. Alf’s art gallery was, let’s say’ a very interesting studio. Unfortunately Alf wasn't home, although that might be our luck as Alf Is well known for talking just a little bit too much if he can get his hands on innocent tourists…

Our final stop that day was Farina campgrounds which turned out to be a little gem in the outback, a beautiful campspot in the middle of nowhere. It’s a little green oasis with heaps of bird life.

In the evening we walked to the Farina Ruins to take beautiful photos and to soak in the history of yesteryear’s life.

Day 14 The Flinders Ranges

This morning it was nice and coolish when we got up and had breakfast.

Next to the campsite was the start of Bunyeroo Gorge hike which we decided to walk. It was just past 9 am when we started and it was getting warm really quickly. We enjoyed the walk that took us past several geological points of interest. The walk was signposted with information that explained the geology of the area. Some of the rock formations were really impressive. Halfway in the track we decided to head back as the heat was getting unbearable also keeping in mind our legs were still tired from yesterday’s hike.

From the car park we drove towards the Brachina Gorge and took the turn to Aroona ruins. We walked around at the ruins for a bit, took lots of pictures (the view of the Ranges was amazing) and read about the history on the displays provided.

As it was too hot to walk we decided to drive around for a bit and to check out some of the campsites for the night ahead.

On a different note, yesterday we received the message that Monique’s sister‘s labour would be induced that same day. The question if everything had gone well kept Monique busy for most of last night and again this morning. In the end we decided to drive back to Wilpena (where we had reception) to find out.

Proudly we can announce that for the fourth time we have become Aunty and Uncle. The little girl is called Neele and both Mum and baby are doing well J

Happy and relieved we then had some lunch and did some washing. We had already found a nice campsite this morning so that’s where we were heading next. On our way we enjoyed two great lookouts that provided some excellent views of the ranges.

The Koolamon campsite was pretty big with about 12 sites and there was nobody there.  And since nobody arrived that evening it was a very peaceful and quiet night!

Day 13 Merna Mora to Flinders Ranges

It was so hot last night and it hardly cooled down during the night. Thankfully Monique sewed some mosquito nets for the car doors so at least during the night we can keep some windows open.

We had a quick brekkie and packed up our stuff. We took the Moralana Scenic drive, an unsealed track towards the Flinders Ranges which started opposite from where we camped. It was a really nice drive with some magnific views over the ranges. Again there were heaps of Roo’s and Emus around.

The track ended on to the main road to Wilpena Pound. Along the way we enjoyed a few lookouts and stopped to pay the park and camping fees at the entrance into the Park. From there it was only a short drive to the Parks headquarters. We got some information about walks and campsites.

Back at the car we had something to eat and then started one of the walks. The walk took us up to Mount Ohlssen Bagge. It was a very steep return walk of 6.4 km. And steep it was!! It took us almost 2 hours to get to the top. It was a hot day but thankfully there was a bit of cloud cover, otherwise the sun would have toasted us!

The view from the top was  amazing and definitely worth the climb! There were heaps of little lizards and dragons around and they loved the flies we brought with us. When we sat down to have something to eat and drink they came closer and closer catching the flies around us. At some point one of the lizards even climbed up in Sanders shorts!!! Hilarious!

The walk down was a bit more pleasant but needless to say, we were very happy to be back at the car again. We decided to find out if there were any showers around and managed to find some. Hooray for free (lukewarm) showers!!!

Clean, tired and satisfied we drove further into the park to find a camp spot. We drove to Bunyeroo Gorge and when we got there we setup camp and sat down for a nice cold beer. 

Day 12 Minnininnie Rest Area to Merna Mora Station

We had a bit of a late start this morning; is the holiday feeling finally settling in?!

After we packed up camp we drove to Yunta. Here is the start of the quarantine zone where most fruits and vegetables aren’t allowed with respect to the spreading of the Queensland Fruit Fly. Thankfully we thought about this when we did grocery shopping in Broken Hill yesterday so we had hardly anything to throw away. Note that this was a manned inspection post, meaning they take the fruit fly problem serious.

Our next stop that morning was Peterborough, a nice little outback town with some lively history. It was a thriving town in the late 1900’s as they processed much of the ore from Broken Hill (supplied via train) as well as other ‘resource’ related activities. We stocked up on fruit, vegetables and water before heading off towards Magnetic Hill.

Magnetic Hill is a place that according to local legend has ‘magic’ powers. Cars that are parked on a seemingly downward slope will travel backwards (thus up hill) when put in Neutral. A big mystery indeed ;) Maybe it was the big magnet…?!?  Nevertheless it kept us occupied for 10 minutes!

Our next stop and camp for the night was supposedly the Flinders Ranges… But about 70 km north of Hawker we discovered we were heading in the wrong direction L. Slightly annoyed we backtracked to a nearby campsite on a cattle station property called Merna Mora. For only $10 a night you at least get to enjoy a nice sunset and view over the Flinders Ranges.

Something that we have to mention is the flies in the outback. For those of you that have never experienced it... It’s absolutely driving one nuts. As soon as you get out of the car you are surrounded by 50 flies trying to get into your mouth, your nose, your eyes and your ears. It’s horrific! Thankfully we’ve got fly nets that we can pull over our heads so at least we can enjoy our cold beer in peace J

When it gets dark the flies finally go to bed and leave you alone. And if you want to enjoy your breakfast in peace the next morning , be sure to get up bright and early, before the flies get active again!

Day 11 Silverton to Winnininnie Rest Area

As today was Monique’s birthday, we decided to take it slow. After breakfast and a shower we made it into Broken Hill town centre once again. First the necessary grocery shopping was done and then we drove to Broken Earth look out. Unfortunately the café where we wanted to have a coffee was non-existing anymore. So after enjoying the lookout we went to the Silly Goat Café instead and enjoyed the best coffee since Acorn Nursery in Surrey Hills… lol!

We spent nearly two hours at the café updating our blog and getting in touch with friends and family. We had a quick stop at an art gallery where we really enjoyed the work of an artist called Peter Anderson.  Sander bought me a set of lovely earrings as a birthday present J

Then it was time to hit the road again. We wanted to make it into South Australia today.

After a few hours of driving on the Barrier Highway into SA we saw a rest area. Actually we wanted to drive a bit further but we were tired and noticed there was already a caravan parked at this stop. We asked the owners if they were planning to stay overnight and they confirmed. We then decided to drive no further and to set up camp. In the end it worked out to be a great decision. 

Sander was able to take awesome pictures of the sunset and Monique was able to Skype with her family to receive her birthday wishes.

It was a great outback camp spot!